Point Reyes National Seashore

A cool experience with 6 to 10 mile hikes
Trek into the wilderness and sleep in the backcountry
Pups are welcome at camp and on hiking trails
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Kayak-backpacking and chasing bioluminescence in Tomales Bay

Kayak-backpacking and chasing bioluminescence in Tomales Bay

Kayak-backpacking and chasing bioluminescence in Tomales Bay

Kayak-backpacking and chasing bioluminescence in Tomales Bay

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Last updated
March 8, 2022

Trip · 3-day backpacking trip

For · Friends and new backpackers

Distance · At least 2 miles of paddling

Vibe · Relaxing and chill

Permit · Yes, reserve a boat-in campsite in Tomales Bay

Drive · 1.5 hours from SF

Ideal dates · May to October

Pets · Welcome on kayaks, certain launch areas, and beaches

Tomales Bay is a 15-mile long inlet off of the Pacific Ocean and is the largest unspoiled coastal embayment, aka bay, in California. The west side of the bay belongs to Point Reyes National Seashore, and that's where you can camp overnight in places only accessible by boat. Bop around various beaches, explore small sandy coves and paddle through bioluminescent waters underneath a starry sky. Kayak-backpacking in Tomales Bay is a special experience worth doing at least once, if not more.

Official Point Reyes National Seashore Website

Blue Waters Kayaking Website

Directions to Chicken Ranch Beach Launch Site

Main image credit: N/A

Stuff to know

  • Reserve and rent a kayak from Blue Waters Kayaking. If you have a sedan, they'll show you how to strap the kayak onto your car. You can also pay a little extra to have them deliver the kayaks to your launch area. They also have this nifty kayaking map!
  • Beach fires are allowed, but that changes on a daily basis. You must pick up a campfire permit from Bear Valley Visitor Center (BVVC) the day of your trip to see if campfires are cool. BVVC is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5 PM.
  • Raccoons are the largest critter you'll have to worry about, but they're FEISTY! Bring a rodent-proof container to store your food overnight and when you're away from camp. Don't leave your snacks out because they're known for snatching them!
  • Depending on the time of year, Tomales Bay can get foggy in the morning. Bring a compass to help you navigate

Resources

Check the weather
Tomales Bay

Where to camp

Marshall Beach

Marshall and Tomales Beach have:

  • Vault toilets
  • Trash cans

Once you reserve a camping permit, finding a boat-in campsite in Tomales Bay is largely first-come, first serve. You can camp just about anywhere along the bay, unless you book a Marshall or Tomales Beach Group campsite designated to those specific beaches. Marshall and Tomales Beach are the only campsites with toilets and trash collection. Everywhere else you'll need to bring a wag bag to carry out your 💩 and trash. Leave No Trace, baby!

Bring at least a gallon per person of potable water per day because there aren't any drinking water sources available. Dog-friendly beach campsites are Indian, Kilkenny, Long Cove, Fruit Tree, Marshall, No Name, Tomales, and Elk Fence South Beach. Protip: Saturdays are the busiest time to be paddling around the Bay so score a mid-week camping reservation to duck the crowds.

Nightly Fee: $20

Kayak backpacking in Tomales Bay
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Itinerary

Day One

Kayak backpacking in Tomales Bay
Kayak-backpacking in Tomales Bay. Credit: Blue Waters Kayaking

Leave SF by 8 AM and pick up your kayak at Blue Waters Kayaking

  • Single kayak rental for 2 nights is $180 and a double kayak rental is $250. Reserve your kayaks as early as possible! Rentals also come with a drybag.
  • Located at 11401 CA-1 in Point Reyes Station
  • Open from 9 AM to 4 PM daily
  • ​Last pit stop · Point Reyes Station - 11401 CA-1 in Point Reyes Station

Pick up a campfire permit from Bear Valley Visitor Center

  • Depending on wildfire conditions, campfires aren't always allowed, but swing by the visitor center to make sure. It opens at 9:30 AM.

Stock up on sandwiches, water and snacks at Inverness Park Market

  • Locals love their sammies, breakfast burritos, and fresh ingredients
  • Located at 12301 Sir Francis Drake Blvd in Inverness Park
  • Open daily from 8 AM to 8 PM

Park and launch your kayak from Chicken Ranch Beach

  • This is the only dog-friendly launch site in Tomales Bay. You can also launch from Miller Boat, Hearts Desire Beach and Lawson's Landing
  • The bay gets pretty windy in the afternoon so try to start paddling as early as possible. Kayak closer to shore to do some sightseeing along the way!
  • It's a 1 to 2 hour paddle to Marshall Beach so pace yourself

Paddle to Indian Beach and enjoy a quick lunch break

  • Or if you're feeling ambitious, enjoy lunch as you go!

Kayak to Marshall Beach and set up camp

  • If you fancy another beach along the way, then set up there, but if you prefer having a toilet and trash collection, then get to Marshall Beach sooner rather than later
  • Be mindful of low and high water tides so you don't wake up to a soaking tent

Cook up dinner and make a beach fire (if campfires are allowed)

  • You did it! Enjoy your first night in Tomales Bay!
Tomales Bay was named after Rancho Bolsa de Tomales, a Mexican land grant given by Governor Pío Pico to Juan Nepomuceno Padilla in 1846.

Day Two

Tomales Bay
Pebble Beach in Tomales Bay

Make brekkie and prep for a day paddle

  • Pack water, snacks, lunch to-go, sunscreen, bug spray, hat, and sunglasses
  • Download this map (the same one from above) and choose your own adventure in Tomales Bay
  • Check out Hog Island, which you can't land on due to nesting wildlife, but it's still a cool spot to paddle to
  • Pick a beachside lunch spot along the way and cool off with a swim!

Chill and unwind back at camp

  • Clean up and dry off your swimsuits and any damp clothes

Prep a sunset dinner

  • Soak up your last dinner in Tomales Bay!

If you're feeling ambitious, go night kayaking in search for bioluminescence

  • After the sun completely sets, flip on your headlamp's red light feature and go for a night paddle along the coast
  • Bioluminescence is best seen in dark conditions. Try paddling north, away from homes and artificial light. Some people haven't always been able to see bioluminescence, so at the very least enjoy the starry skies
Bioluminescence is a glowing, shimmery light produced by a chemical reaction within a living organism, which in this case is marine life.

Day Three

Tomales Bay
Tomales Bay

Pack up and leave camp around 9 AM

  • Cook up brekkie, pick up any random pieces of litter around camp, pack snacks, and water for the return paddle back to Chicken Ranch Beach
  • Layer on sunscreen, bugspray, and fill up your water bottles!

Return kayaks and stop by Side Street Kitchen for lunch

  • Diners love their sandwiches and rotisserie chicken
  • Located at 60 4th Street in Point Reyes Station
  • Closed Mondays and Tuesdays · Open from 11 AM to 6 PM
The Coast Miwok used to live in Tomales Bay. Their villages included Echa-kolum, Sakloki, Shotommo-wi, and Utumia
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Shop curated gear

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Bezzi's Pick
$$$

Xero Shoes Z-Trail EV

You won't be saving money, but you'll save space and weight with these camp sandals.

Bezzi's Pick
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REI Co-op Grand Hut 6 Tent

Sleepover! This is a tent you can stand up in and have plenty of space for air mattresses, doggos, and more.

Bezzi's Pick
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Camp Chef Everest 2 Burner Stove

A reliable, popular, and relatively affordable dual-burner camping stove that is fairly heavy, but performs well.

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FreeWheel Black Wheelchair Attachment

It's pricey, but the New York Times' Wirecutter recommended this attachment as a way for wheelchair users to navigate uneven terrain.

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Advantage Wallaby Wheelchair Down Under Catch All Bag

Instead of transporting stuff on your lap, use this storage bag to easily store items underneath your wheelchair.

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Purell Hand Sanitizer with Jelly Wrap Carrier

Never dig around your pack to find some hand sanitizer. Instead, hang this one on the outside of your pack.

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Mountain Laurel Designs Exodus 55L | 3500 CI

If you're an experienced backpacker, this is the lightest full-size, full-featured, frameless pack made.

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Ariceleo LED Battery Operated Fairy Lights

Add a little magic to your experience by hanging these twinkling lights around your tent every night.

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Coleman Camping Chair with Built-in 4 Can Cooler

Sometimes you just want a camp chair that gets the job done. Nothing glamorous or fancy. Well, this is it.

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Zpacks Duplex Tent

The more you backpack the lighter your shelter becomes, and the lighter it is, the more expensive it can be.

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Nemo Fillo Pillow

It's a heavier, bulkier pillow for ultralight backpackers, but you're guaranteed a good night's sleep.

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TETON Sports Polara Sleeping Bag

It's not the fairest of them all, but this affordable sleeping bag delivers on warmth and comfort.

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Meal and snack ideas

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Food For The Sole Blueberry Banana Crunch

Gluten Free • Vegan

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Packit Gourmet Diner Deluxe Eggs with Sausage

Bezzi's Pick
Dessert

Campfire cinnamon roll ups

Vegetarian

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Snack

Brookside Dark Chocolate Covered Blueberries

Vegetarian

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Angie's Boom Chicka Pop

Gluten Free · Vegan

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Santa Cruz Organic Apple Sauce

Gluten Free · Vegan

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Summer rolls with almond butter satay

Gluten Free · Vegan

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Dan dan noodles

Gluten Free · Vegan

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Asian chicken lettuce wraps

Gluten free

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Pho ramen

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Curry ramen

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Peanut butter cheesecake overnight oats

Vegetarian

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